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Friday, February 15, 2008

Learning About the French Quarter

All-Star Weekend is well underway. Here is the link to my first report for HoopsHype.com (10/7/15 edit: the link to HoopsHype.com no longer works, so I have posted the original article below):

This is the fourth time that I have covered NBA All-Star Weekend and each time represented the first time that I had visited the host city. In Denver (2005) I immediately noticed the fresh air and beautiful mountain skyline. Houston (2006) made an instant impression by virtue of its sheer physical size. Las Vegas (2007) has the glitz and the glamour, the landscape dotted with gaudy hotels/casinos. The first sensation I experienced in New Orleans was a wonderful aroma of food in the airport; I'm not sure what was being cooked but whatever it was smelled great.

The newest flavors that have been added to the city are huge posters/billboards promoting All-Star Weekend. One of them features Kevin Garnett and the tagline, "Basketball is a brotherhood."

During the shuttle ride to the Marriott we did not see many signs of the devastation that Hurricane Katrina wrought upon this city, partially because of the rebuilding efforts that have taken place since then and partially because we did not travel through the most afflicted areas. We passed by some of New Orleans' famous cemeteries and our driver Derek explained why the tombs are above ground: the whole area is below sea level, so the ground is saturated with water and people do not want to bury their loved ones in those muddy conditions.

After arriving at the Marriott and picking up my credential, I had several hours of free time before the day's NBA activities formally began. I decided to explore the French Quarter on foot. Louisiana has a rich basketball legacy that includes the likes of Bob Pettit, Pistol Pete Maravich and Karl Malone but it has an even older chess legacy that dates back to New Orleans-born Paul Morphy, whose career eerily foreshadowed Bobby Fischer's: both earned recognition as the best chess player in the world before abandoning the game and spending their latter years struggling with mental illness. The current king of chess in New Orleans is chess master Jude Acers, who has held court in the French Quarter for decades, taking on all comers. I hoped to challenge him to a game but alas I apparently just missed him on this day, arriving at the Gazebo restaurant on Decatur Street just moments after he packed up his board and left. I hung around for a while because some of the locals thought that he might return; at the Gazebo I enjoyed one of the juiciest, best tasting hamburgers I have ever eaten but Acers did not come back and I soon resumed my explorations.

The French Quarter was not directly hit by Hurricane Katrina but of course its impact was heavily felt there because people who worked and shopped there were displaced--including Acers and many others. You can learn a lot about what New Orleans' citizens are thinking by reading the slogans on various t-shirts that are being sold in the French Quarter. My favorite reads simply "Recover, Rebuild, Re-New Orleans." Some of the slogans are funny, if slightly politically incorrect ("Beer…Helping White Men Dance Since 1842"). Malapropisms prompted by drunkenness are a frequent theme (for example, "Officer, I swear to drunk I am not God"). Many of the slogans are definitely not safe for work (or this site), but I can clean one of them up enough to convey its flavor: "Fema Evacuation Plan: Run (expletive deleted) run."

Although I did not meet Acers, I encountered a very talented artist of a different kind: William Warren, who is a proud member of the Jackson Square Artist Colony. Warren explained that the roots of the colony date back as far as the Civil War era, "probably making it the oldest outdoor art colony in the United States." Warren studied at the Rhode Island School of Design but 10 years ago he relocated to New Orleans for two reasons: the existence of the vibrant art colony and the opportunity to do more outdoor painting due to the more temperate nature of the city's climate. Members of the colony must purchase licenses from the city of New Orleans. The cost is not high but one of the provisions of the agreement between the colony and the city is that the artists will only produce original, handmade work--no machine made or mass produced items. Warren describes the colony's mission: "Promoting and preserving the art of painting and drawing." He says that a hand painted image is different than the mechanical image produced by a camera because it is organic and vibrant and conveys emotion instead of being a precise, by the numbers depiction.

While Warren spoke with me he continued to paint one of a series of works that he is doing about the city's lamp posts. He does not like the fluorescent bulbs that the city sometimes places in these old fixtures, so his paintings depict a burning flame shining brightly, an example not only of the triumph of the organic (fire) over the mechanical (a light bulb) but also symbolizing his hopes for the city's revival. Watching him work, I commented that it seems to me that the artist differs from the average person in both his heightened visual perception and his ability to use his fine motor skills to accurately portray what he sees. Warren agreed with this observation and added, "The hand is being lost to the computer." He is disappointed that a greater emphasis is not placed on art in the schools.

New Orleans is a very compact city where it is much easier to get around on foot or via public transportation than by car and this is even more true now with so many people arriving in town this weekend. The Marriott literally sits on the border of the French Quarter and it is a brief walk away from the massive Ernest M. Morial Convention Center, host of NBA All-Star Jam Session. If you are able to make it to New Orleans during All-Star Weekend but cannot score tickets to the big game or the side events then Jam Session is a wonderful alternative. Current and former players are available for demonstrations and autograph sessions and there are numerous opportunities for fans young and old alike to participate in various interactive basketball activities. The Jam Session site also hosts events like the NBA/National Wheelchair Basketball Association All-Star Wheelchair Classic and the Legends Shootout.

I wrote about the Wheelchair Classic last year and was so impressed by what I saw that this has become a can't miss event for me. The participants are selected by the NWBA and comprise the top players from its teams; this year, Christina Ripp became the first woman to qualify for the game. The West All-Stars defeated the East All-Stars 64-57, with Bobby Nickleberry--who makes Wes Unseld-like outlet passes--winning East MVP honors and the sharpshooting Chuck Gill winning West MVP honors. I had the good fortune of watching most of the game while sitting next to Susan Katz, the communication coordinator of the Lakeshore Foundation. Katz played wheelchair basketball for the University of Illinois and won a Paralympics gold medal as a member of Team USA in 2004; her insights and patient explanations greatly increased my understanding of the strategic aspects of wheelchair basketball. Most of the rules of the game are the same; two differences are that offensive players are allowed to stay in the lane for four seconds and the ballhandler is allowed two "pushes" of his chair for each time he dribbles the basketball.

The obvious limitation that wheelchair athletes face is not being able to jump but Katz mentioned to me that the lack of lateral mobility is a key element in wheelchair basketball strategy. Players have to spin and/or travel in an arc to move from one side to the other, so the back pick is a devastating weapon in wheelchair basketball and if it is properly executed it always leads to a wide open shot. She noted that at the highest levels of the game the players have such great chair skills and speed that this advantage is minimized somewhat, much like how the opening to get a shot off in the NBA is very small.

The legs are the most important part of the shot for a jump shooter. Obviously, wheelchair athletes have to rely on different sources of power. During halftime of the game, Jeff Griffin and Trooper Johnson set official Guinness World Records for most free throws made in one minute by a wheelchair athlete (25 each), as certified by Stuart Claxton, a Guinness World records representative who was present on site. Katz graciously arranged for me to speak with both athletes. I asked them if they had played basketball prior to their injuries. Johnson told me, "I played mostly football before my accident but I've been playing sports all of my life so once I had my car accident the transition back into sports and athletics was natural."

How did they make the adjustment to shooting without using leg power? Johnson answered, "It's something that you just get used to. You start understanding that all of the power has to be generated by your arms and once you get used to the form from sitting in the wheelchair it's just repetition, like anything else; the more you do it, the better you get at it and the stronger you get at it." Players must deal with both muscular and cardiovascular fatigue during games. Johnson noted, "If you don't maintain your hydration level then you will get cramps. You also have to work on your cardio so that you don't get winded on the court."

Like Johnson, Griffin was a football player prior to his injury, playing wide receiver at the junior college level. "Like Trooper said, I got hurt but my competitive drive continued. Being able to compete in a wheelchair against other guys who are in similar situations is just a great opportunity to keep that drive going." Griffin dismissed my question about the difficulty of learning how to shoot from a wheelchair by saying simply, "When you are competitive you find a way. You find a way to adapt." Echoing Katz' observation about back picks, Griffin told me that even though he had played some competitive basketball prior to his injury that he never fully understood the pick and roll play--and how it can help you get a shot off against a player who is more athletic--until he started playing wheelchair basketball. Johnson added that able-bodied players can grab jerseys and fight their way through picks but, as Katz suggested, when a wheelchair athlete is picked then he stays picked for several seconds.

This year's Legends Shootout featured George Gervin, Detlef Schrempf, Jo Jo White and defending champion David Thompson. The contest consisted of shooting from racks located on each baseline and at the top of the key. The players could shoot 20 foot jumpers but Schrempf elected to shoot legit NBA threes. He and Gervin advanced to the Finals, where Gervin won after Schrempf missed a "money ball" that could have potentially tied the score.

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posted by David Friedman @ 11:25 PM

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Friday, February 16, 2007

Day One of All-Star Weekend

You better get your rest beforehand if you ever plan on coming to an NBA All-Star Weekend--because you sure won't get much sleep while you are there. Here is a link to the first of my four daily All-Star Weekend reports for HoopsHype.com (10/5/15 edit: the link to HoopsHype.com no longer works, so I have posted the original article below):

NBA All-Star Weekend is the place to see and be seen--and that goes double this year with the festivities being held in Las Vegas. Naturally, over the next few days I expect to speak with many current and former NBA players, but my first celebrity sighting of the weekend came much earlier than I expected: noon on Thursday to be precise. Warren Sapp of the Oakland Raiders was on my flight from Cincinnati to Las Vegas. I introduced myself and said that I just wanted to ask him a couple questions. "I'm off duty," he replied gruffly--not exactly the quote that I was seeking but I guess it will have to do.

The flight was otherwise uneventful, but the three-hour time zone shift brought to mind Bob Costas' favorite Marvin Barnes story: when the Spirits of St. Louis forward saw that the team's itinerary involved taking off at 8:00 and landing at 7:59 he declared, "I ain't getting in no time machine"--or so the story goes. Time disappears quickly in Vegas--casinos have no clocks, after all--and the only thing that disappears faster here than time is money.

I had thought that there was a free shuttle from the airport to the hotel, but when I mentioned that to one of the shuttle service people he chuckled and said, "The only thing that is free in Vegas is the air." I suspect that I will hear that phrase more than once before the weekend is over.

After you arrive in Vegas, the first thing that you notice is the subtle, understated approach that the city has about hosting All-Star Weekend--not! Images of All-Star Weekend participants such as Dwyane Wade, Allen Iverson, Tim Duncan, Kevin Garnett and Chris Paul are on the walls and ceilings in many building and are even taking up the entire sides of some of the hotels. The NBA Communications office's Vegas headquarters is located at the MGM Grand Hotel, so I stopped there to pick up my credential for the All-Star Game, All-Star Saturday night and the other events.

The MGM Grand is the second largest hotel in the world. Remember Cloud City in Empire Strikes Back? It is something like that, only with more gambling and no Darth Vader. The place is massive! It's always nice to see a familiar face when you are in a new environment and the first one I saw today was Branson Wright, the Cleveland Cavs' beat writer for the Plain Dealer. Actually, I saw him twice--once when I was leaving the Communications office and he was just arriving and then again when he was leaving the Communications office and I was arriving again after wandering in circles; I told you the place is huge, but I've got my sea legs now.

Whoever decides on the playlist for the songs that are piped into the lobby/hallways at the MGM Grand has a nice sense of irony; one selection was Steely Dan's "Do It Again" ("Now you swear and kick and beg us that you’re not a gamblin' man; then you find you're back in Vegas with a handle in your hand.")

After I got my credential I headed straight for the Mandalay Bay Hotel's South Convention Center, site of this year's NBA Jam Session. You know that you've taken a long walk when there are video screens overhead offering encouragement: "Almost there, just a little further." After the second one, though, my faith was beginning to weaken. I arrived in time for the official Opening Ceremony, hosted by NBA TV's Andre Aldridge and featuring NBA Commissioner David Stern, Las Vegas Mayor Oscar Goodman (flanked by two showgirls, naturally), NBA legend Dominique Wilkins and various other local political leaders and Adidas corporate figures.

Commissioner Stern began his remarks by noting that the Mandalay Bay's facilities for Jam Session exceed 400,000 square feet, making it perhaps the largest Jam Session yet. He also noted that a record 8,000 tickets have already been sold for the event, which lasts throughout All-Star Weekend. Jam Session is really an excellent opportunity for fans to participate in All-Star Weekend, because tickets for the game itself and the other side events are almost impossible for most people to get. Jam Session features contests involving every form of basketball imaginable: pop a shot, video games, full court games and more. There are also a variety of types of food available, although the fare is a touch on the pricey side. There are also autograph sessions with current and retired players, a large section featuring basketball collectibles for sale and various interactive exhibits.

Mayor Goodman mentioned that he attended last year's All-Star Weekend in Houston and then declared, "What Las Vegas is going to do is going to dwarf the events that took place last year because we're the greatest city in the world and the Jam Session is going to be the greatest Jam Session in the world...The NBA comes into town and they have embraced the city of Las Vegas and the city of Las Vegas has shown our love for the NBA. What they have done since they've been in this community is awesome. They've been to the schools, they've been to the community centers. Today they went over to Sunrise Hospital to visit with children who are ill."

Wilkins did not speak at the press conference, but spoke to several members of the media afterwards. Asked what he hopes to get out of this year's All-Star Weekend experience, Wilkins noted that previous All-Star Weekends have been very tiring, concluding, "At the end of the day, if I get a little rest, I’m happy."

The NBA has put in a regulation size court on the Jam Session site. A short time after the opening ceremony, two All-Star wheelchair teams squared off on that court in the NBA/National Wheelchair Basketball Association (NWBA) Wheelchair Classic. NBA Legend George Gervin served as an honorary assistant coach for the West squad, while WNBA players Ruth Riley and Shona Thorburn filled that role for the East team.

These wheelchair athletes are highly skilled and if you think that they take it easy on each other because of their handicaps then you are sorely mistaken. I don't think that I had ever previously seen a wheelchair basketball game from start to finish. They play a very physical game, crashing into each other while setting screens or on plays that involved a block/charge call. On several occasions, wheelchairs were flipped sideways with the athlete still in them. He either righted himself quickly or the person who hit him helped him up, if he could. The way that they could land on their wheels (or at least be quickly back on them) is like the way that cats always land on their feet.

Riley was very involved on the sidelines, cheering her team on, laughing and joking with the players, slapping five with them as they came out of the game and even fetching water or Gatorade for them. I asked her about that and about how All-Star Weekend has come to embrace so many more elements--legends, WNBA players, wheelchair athletes, the Saturday night competitors--than just the game on Sunday.

"The NBA All-Star Weekend is definitely about more than just the game," Riley replied. "It is a week long event filled with things like this (All-Star Wheelchair Game) where we get out in the community and are interact with different groups. It is a fun week for whatever ever city the All-Star Game is in. I had a great time today. Just talking to the players and hanging out with them as a coach is a lot of fun. I've been an honorary coach for a couple years now. It is something that I like to do and is a lot of fun. It is one of my favorite events of All-Star Weekend."

I mentioned that the skill level of the players is quite amazing and Riley said, "I actually played in a (wheelchair) against the guys in a game in Detroit and it was very difficult."

Later in the evening, the Jam Session Center Court hosted the NBA Legends Shootout, which pitted Jo Jo White, George Gervin, David Thompson and Randy Smith against each other in a modified version of the three-point shootout. They only used three racks of basketballs (one on each baseline and one at the top of the key) and each rack contained four basketballs instead of five. The last ball is worth an extra point, just like in the three point shootout. Also, the players shot from about 20 feet out, not from the three-point line. There did not seem to be a definite spot from which they all shot. Thompson inched up the closest during his attempts. Watching the warmups, Randy Smith not only looked like a shoo-in to win the contest but he looked like he was in good enough shape to sign a ten day contract. He went first and disaster struck as he scored just five points, which turned out to be the worst total in the first round. Afterward, I asked Smith what happened. "I jumped to shoot (during the first round) and it just pulled," Smith said of a balky muscle in his leg. He had a slight but noticeable limp as he left the court after the event. Hopefully it is nothing serious.

Jo Jo White went next, scoring seven points. Thompson took the lead with nine, canning the money ball at the buzzer. Gervin, the only player to start on the left baseline and work himself around as opposed to starting on the right side, tallied just six, missing the finals. Thompson went first and put up a 10 spot, placing the pressure on White, the oldest player in this competition. White managed just four points and Thompson earned the trophy as the Legends Shootout winner.

The city of Las Vegas is on a 24-hour-a-day adrenalin rush right now. There are parties everywhere, the casinos are packed and the nightclubs and restaurants are bustling. The Vegas hotels are so huge (I've been in the MGM Grand, Excalibur and Mandalay Bay so far) that the casinos, nightclubs and restaurants all basically meld into each other, a blur of sound, color and movement as people shift from eating and drinking to gambling to dancing and back again. Sleep is an unspoken four letter word as All-Star Weekend kicks into high gear.

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posted by David Friedman @ 7:55 AM

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